As the late afternoon sun bathed the barren landscapes of
Nubra Valley in a warm, golden hue, I found myself spellbound by a mesmerizing
sight—the vibrant autumnal foliage that adorned the riverbanks along our
journey from Pangong Tso Lake to Nubra Valley, situated in Ladakh, Jammu and
Kashmir, India. Though the photographs I managed to capture were far from
perfect, taken from a moving car in challenging low-light conditions, they
stand as a testament to the breathtaking beauty of Nubra Valley's autumnal
transformation.
Our adventure unfolded on the 9th of October, commencing at
around 10:00 AM, as we departed from the serene Pangong Tso Lake. Our route
traced a path to the northwest, with the imposing Karakoram Range on our right
and the rugged Ladakh Range on our left. The journey would eventually lead us
to Hundar, a hidden gem within Nubra Valley, a destination renowned for its
exclusive and exotic beauty. Our passage along the Shyok River would prove to
be an experience of a lifetime, one that would forever be etched in our
memories. By late afternoon, around 6:30 PM, we found ourselves in the
welcoming embrace of Hotel Snow Leopard in Hundar.
Photographs from the Moving Car
The photographs I managed to capture were far from ideal,
owing to the constraints of photographing from a moving car under challenging
low-light conditions. Yet, they hold a unique charm, a glimpse into the
stunning autumnal palette that nature had painted along the riverbanks of Nubra
Valley. The vivid hues of red, orange, and gold juxtaposed against the vast and
barren landscapes created a striking contrast, an ode to the resilience and
beauty of life in this high-altitude desert.
The Unique Beauty of Nubra Valley in Autumn
Nubra Valley, often referred to as Ladakh's
"tri-armed" gem, boasts its own exclusive and exotic allure. The
region's enchantment arises from the convergence of the Shyok River and the
Nubra or Siachan River, which gives birth to a sprawling valley that gracefully
separates the Ladakh and Karakoram Ranges. The Shyok River, a tributary of the
mighty Indus River, nourishes the valley, where the average altitude stands at
an astonishing 10,000 feet above sea level. Accessing this remote haven
typically involves a thrilling journey over the Khardung La pass from Leh town.
The Geography of Nubra Valley
Much like the broader Tibetan Plateau, Nubra Valley is a
high-altitude cold desert, where precipitation is a rarity, and vegetation
thrives only along the fertile riverbeds. Here, in this challenging terrain,
the resilient villagers cultivate crops such as wheat, barley, peas, mustard,
and a variety of fruits and nuts, including blood apples, walnuts, apricots,
and even almond trees. The majority of the valley's inhabitants are Buddhists,
while along the Shyok River, the Balti community thrives, speaking Balti and
following Shia and Sufia Nurbakhshia Islam.
Nubra Valley's geographical wonders extend to its
surroundings, with the Siachen Glacier to the north, the Sasser Pass, and the
renowned Karakoram Pass to the northwest. These historical passes have long
connected Nubra Valley to Uyghur in Xinjiang, China, facilitating trade routes
between western China's Xinjiang and Central Asia.
Exploring Nubra Valley's Treasures
Our exploration of Nubra Valley led us to numerous treasures
that breathed life into the region's rich history and culture. Diskit, serving
as the valley's headquarters, stands connected to Leh by road. Here, the iconic
32-meter Maitreya Buddha statue presides as a symbol of spiritual heritage
lovingly maintained by the Diskit Monastery.
The course of the Nubra or Siachan River unfolds a tapestry
of villages, each with its charm and character. Sumur, Kyagar, Tirith, Panamik,
Turtuk, and more weave a cultural tapestry that tells tales of tradition and
history.
Diskit is famed for its Diskit Monastery, a spiritual
sanctuary that traces its roots back to 1420 AD. Hundar, once the capital of
the Nubra kingdom in the 17th century, is home to the Chamba Gompa. The journey
between Hundar and Diskit reveals a hidden gem—a stretch of dunes where
two-humped Bactrian camels graze amidst the "forests" of
seabuckthorn.
Bogdang's Enigma
Among the captivating landscapes of Nubra Valley, the
village of Bogdang stands as a testament to the region's diverse cultural
mosaic. Here, a unique presence is noted—the people with startling blue eyes,
auburn hair, and rosy cheeks, a stark contrast to the typical Mongoloid
features of the Ladakhis. Local lore weaves a fascinating tale—that they were a
Greek tribe in search of Jesus Christ's tomb, eventually finding their home in
Baigdandu. This village is also renowned for its goats that contribute to the
production of famous Pashmina shawls.
Navigating Nubra Valley's Routes
The primary road to Nubra Valley traverses the iconic
Khardung La pass, often regarded as the world's highest motorable road. An
alternative route, opened in 2008, offers a captivating journey. This route,
which we embarked upon on our journey from Pangong Tso via Durbuk, involves
crossing the Wari La Pass, following the Shyok River, and eventually reaching
Diskit via Khalsar. These alternative routes offer unique perspectives on Nubra
Valley's grandeur. Historical routes from Nubra to Baltistan and Yarkand,
however, have remained closed since 1947 and 1950, respectively.
The Ever-Evolving Destination
Nubra Valley's allure was accessible to tourists until
Hunder, known as the "land of dunes," until 2010. Beyond Hunder, the
landscape transforms into a greener region of Ladakh, thanks to its lower
altitude. The village of Turtuk, hidden from tourists until 2010, remains a
pristine destination for those seeking tranquility and genuine interaction with
the tribal community of Ladakh. Turtuk is a place where apricot trees flourish,
and children bloom like flowers. The local Balti tribe adheres to age-old
customs, speaks a language that is spoken but not written and was once part of
Pakistan until 1972. For tourists, Turtuk offers serene camping sites with
environmentally friendly infrastructure.
In conclusion, my journey through Nubra Valley, with its
vibrant autumnal foliage and myriad cultural and geographical wonders, remains
etched in my heart as a testament to the breathtaking beauty of this remote
corner of the world. The photographs, imperfect as they may be, serve as a
reminder of the stunning contrast between the barren landscapes and the vibrant
hues of autumn along the riverbanks.
Nubra Valley's unique beauty, rich history, and diverse
cultures make it a treasure trove waiting to be explored. This travel report
stands as an invitation to fellow travelers to embark on their voyage of
discovery in the mystical heartland of Ladakh, India, and experience the enchanting allure of Ladakh's autumnal splendor.
